Sunday, January 15, 2012

Don't Go - The Blue Grotto

In this series I tell you places to avoid based on my own experiences. They're over-rated, they're tourist traps and they're a waste of time. Do yourself a favor and learn from my mistakes, don't go!

La Grotta Azzurra, a name so alluring. Who wouldn't want to enter this mysterious cavern and see its crystal blue waters? You, I hope, after reading this. The Blue Grotto is by far the biggest tourist trap, and biggest racket, I have ever experienced in travel.

Is this how you want to spend your island vacation?
Here's the process: first you wait in line for a boat. This goes by rather quickly and you think, "oh, that wasn't bad, we'll be at the Blue Grotto in no time." Then you arrive and see about 25 other boats packed with people waiting in front of you. And in front of them, is a line of people coming from land going down the stairs. All of those people are getting in the Blue Grotto before you. Our wait was about two hours in total. One hour was in the hot sun with the boat shut off, rocking up and down on the waves. People were getting sick. Our driver was nice enough to move us into the shade, but then other boats came and did the same thing. So then we were all crammed against the rock, inhaling boat engine fumes for an hour. It was nauseating. 

Or this? My Mom and our hot Caprese tour guide.
When it's finally your turn to go into the Blue Grotto, you have to get on a smaller rowboat to make it through the tiny entryway. But the first boat ticket you bought doesn't cover that, so you have to pay for a second boat ticket. Plus admission to the Blue Grotto. Plus tax. Plus tip. After all that, they bring you inside for seriously about 1 minute. Just enough time to take a couple of pictures and turn around. It's crowded and loud in there too. And the kicker is, it's so dark inside you can barely see anything! The blue water will show up in photographs if you use an extended flash, but you won't see it with your own eyes. If you want to experience clear blue water for a fraction of the price, install 2000 flushes and take a picture of your toilet bowl. Your time is much better spent taking a private boat tour around the Faraglioni (above). As you can see, the scenery is gorgeous, and the Faraglioni aren't bad either. 

Leaning Tower of Prosciutto
There are many wonderful reasons that people flock to Capri, but the crowds can make you feel like you're in Disneyland, not a blissful Italian island. One way to escape the bustle and capture the island's true essence is to spend time in Anacapri ("above Capri"). You'll enjoy sweeping views from the Marina Grande all the way out to Vesuvius, and have plenty of peace, quiet and space all to yourself. You might even happen upon a local wedding reception featuring a mind-blowing culinary and architectural wonder.

High up in Anacapri, on Viale Tommaso De Tommasi, you are faced with a decision. You can either take the bus down to the Blue Grotto for hours of hell, or step into the unassuming Trattoria Al Nido D'oro, and taste heaven.

Crazy for Caprese, Anacapri





Saturday, January 14, 2012

Don't Go - Mannekin Pis

In this series I tell you places to avoid based on my own experiences. They're over-rated, they're tourist traps and they're a waste of time. Do yourself a favor and learn from my mistakes, don't go!

Mannkin Pis - Brussels, Belgium

Look, I wasn't expecting to be blown away by a statue of a little boy taking a leak. Ok, maybe I was. It's certainly hyped enough to make you feel like it's a must-see. But when you finally do see it, you seriously can't believe how small it is! I saw larger versions of it in souvenir shops all over town. If you don't want to be pis-sed off, save yourself the trouble and just buy a postcard, or take a picture of it in chocolate.

If you want a quirky Belgian experience that tickles instead of trickles, immerse yourself in their comic strip culture. At the Belgian Comic Strip Center, you'll find that Tintin and the Smurfs are just the tip of the iceberg. In fact, that museum is just the tip of the iceberg, they have several more! And if museums aren't your thing no matter how fun the content, try taking a walking tour of the city's comic strip murals. Instead of wee-wee, you'll say "oui, oui!"

Wednesday, January 11, 2012

Photographs and Memories

Fisher-Price photo on flight to Miami
I was born and raised in Rochester, N.Y., home of Eastman Kodak. While I always loved taking pictures, I'll be honest, I was never interested in the science or mechanics of photography. I just loved the idea that you could use an image to preserve a memory for all time. When I was a kid I remember not having a camera and just taking pictures in my mind. I thought, if I take a mental picture of this, I will always remember it. And honestly, I still do remember some of my mental pictures.

In junior high school I got my first real camera, a basic Kodak point and shoot. I began to document my classmates and school events with the idea they would be a historic record.

On a Florida vacation I suffered my first camera setback when I got sand in it and it stopped working. I didn't get another until much later in high school, when I again began to record people and significant events. I dropped off several rolls of film at the Yearbook office and was surprised to see so many of them filling the pages of our senior yearbook. That was an early success, but there would be many more failures.

One of the only surviving photos from Fandango.
On "Fandango," the 1999 cross country road trip I took with my friend Kate, our bags were stolen, including 30 or so undeveloped rolls of film. I was very upset, and the incident made me question if documenting so much of my life was a worthy or even noble pursuit. We've all heard the belief that taking a photograph can steal a person's soul. I'm not sure that's the case in a general sense, but if you are photographing someone without their permission, at minimum you are invading their privacy and personal boundaries. You could say you are stealing something. I admit I've been guilty of this on many occasions, particularly when traveling. I began to question if the theft of my film was some sort of karma for "stealing" souls, or if it was just some way to get me to stop documenting and start living.

One year later on a trip around Europe, my camera died and I again fell short in my attempt to document a major life event. When I returned, I didn't bother purchasing a new camera. At the time I was living in San Francisco, where the mindset of myself and many around me was to "live in the now." I was often told not to take photos or record anything, just live in the moment and experience life as it happens. If you are taking a photo, you're missing it. I fully bought into this. For one thing, it made perfect sense when I was high, and it also seemed to mesh with how I had let my photographs define my previous trips, and how I let their loss or destruction affect how I felt about my trip. I didn't take photos for nearly 4 years.

But in 2004 I had the opportunity to travel to China and Japan. I thought about it long and hard, and decided I just had to take photos. You can't change who you are, and to me, documenting is living. You can say taking photos has you standing on the sidelines, but when I take them, I feel an active participant in whatever is going on.

The advent of digital cameras had me hopeful that I wouldn't suffer the same issues I had with my film cameras of the past. I bought a Fuji FinePix s3000, but I was clueless to the technology. So when uploading the photos to my laptop, I accidentally erased them all!! A techy co-worker did manage to recover some of my deleted photos, but this mishap again made me question my photographic pursuits. Why did every trip end with photos lost? Was this all a coincidence? Or something more? Was I subconsciously sabatoging myself? Or was someone or something trying to stop me from taking all these photos? I will never know the reason for sure, but it definitely got my attention. Maybe that's the reason. Maybe it was just another roadblock I had to push through.

I decided that going forward I would keep taking photos despite the setbacks, but I would embrace technology rather than fear it. Many of the problems I had were preventable if I had only taken the time to learn how things work. I also decided to try to be more conscious of who and what I photograph, and why. I now try to be respectful and selective when taking photos.

In November 2010 I took a trip to Iceland and Europe. I purchased a Canon EOS Rebel T1i, and this time, I studied up before going. Believe it or not, I encountered no problems with this camera or the pictures I took. But this was also the first major trip I took with a smartphone. I downloaded the Hipstamatic and CameraBag apps for my iPhone, and had a field day taking all kinds of quirky photos with these apps. Honestly, they were the photos I most enjoyed taking. So what happened? In Berlin I dropped my iPhone in the toilet! My phone was completely dead, and I wasn't even upset by the possibility that I lost a $200 phone. It was that I lost all the photos I had taken for 3 weeks. There was nothing I could do except put the iPhone into a bag of rice and wait until it dried out. I told a friend what happened and she actually said, "Maybe it's because you take too many photos." Wow, really? There was that thought again.

It's a funny word, taking photos. It kind of implies you are stealing something. I have heard my friend Tom Barker use the term making photos. I like this much better. I wasn't stealing, I was creating. I think that's a good thing.

When I returned home to NY, I plugged in my phone.... and it worked! My photos, and my faith, were restored.

Today I press on, recording moments, scenes and memories. Knowing that each time I take them, they too are not permanent. Nothing is.

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Payback is a Beach!

I received my Foreign Currency Fee Litigation Settlement check today. Yeah, it's a mouthful. And yes, they are real! Apparently us travelers were ripped off a few years back on currency conversion fees by credit card companies. I know, shocking right?
I have no idea how much I was actually overcharged, the trip is long gone and paid for. But I did receive my $18.04 in the mail today. I'm pretty sure it was from my 2005 Italy trip. I doubt it covers all that I was overcharged, but it is like someone just put a little cappuccino and cannoli in my mailbox. A good reminder to always be aware of the fees and charges associated with using credit cards and ATMs while overseas. When it comes to ATMs, I always try to make as few withdrawals as possible to avoid the fees. Yes, this means traveling with more cash on me, but that's also why I keep it in a money belt in my underwear.  As for the check, I'll be putting it in the kitty for a 2012 vacation. Payback's a beach!

Monday, January 9, 2012

New Year, Fresh Start!

Well what can I say. 2011 was a year I did not write a single post for this blog. OOPS! I've actually been spending more time with another blog. I'm sorry, Bella Terra, don't hate!

During the holiday season I took stock of my year and got a little nostalgic for Bella Terra. I thought I should at least write a new year's post wishing a little peace on this beautiful earth. Ok truthfully, Shutterfly offered me $10 if I embedded my holiday card to this blog. So here it is!

Best Wishes for a Happy and Healthy New Year! And lots of fun travel to boot!

Stationery card
View the entire collection of cards.